‘Every Culinary Artist Should Study At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on List of London’s Leading Food Spots.
When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.
An Surprise Recognition
This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.
“I am totally shocked,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Modesty
This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.
A Namesake Dish: Tantuni
In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.
It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.
Other Than the Classic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.
Outranking the Giants
Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.
The Philosophy of Hospitality
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
The Journey of Perseverance
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
An Achievement for the Community
This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.